Tuesday was glorious with light winds and sunshine. Glovers Chimney (III 4) on the Ben gave us a bit of everything - ice, spindrift, neve, mixed climbing and an exposed finish to the summit for a spectacular sunset. The exit from Tower Gap provided the crux of the route with unhelpful snow on the ledges. The international team ahead of us had a good battle on this before exiting left up the bypass chimney
The next two days were characterised by reasonable conditions early morning and late evening with the bulk of the day giving us a couple of violent storms. We took the oppurtunity to test our waterproofs and look at the technical skills of mixed climbing, stance management, escaping the system and multi pitch abseils. Thursday we managed to sneak up the Zig Zags to the summit of Grear Aonach in spring like conditions.
It all came together on Friday with one of the best days of the season. Back up on the Ben we climbed Green Gully (IV 4) on hero neve. It was a bit soft for ice screws but climbing in sunglasses and a fleece made it a very pleasant experience. We were also following Alan Kimber who was mentoring a couple of MIC trainees which meant the belaying was very socialable if alittle cramped. A quick solo down No 4 Gully allowed me to retrieve my sunglasses which had been removed from my face by a chunk of ice and we wandered out under a starry sky.
There was a strange buzzing heard from the vicinity of Ledge Route today! Rob Johnson getting some stunning footage with his drone;